Old floor cracked, chipping or uneven? We pour, finish and cure a new concrete floor that's flat and holds up to daily use.
Concrete floor installation in South Whittier means we place a new slab, then finish it, cut its joints and cure it, so the floor you walk on every day is hard, flat and ready for use.
Usually the call starts with an old floor that's cracked, chipping or sitting uneven, or with a garage, addition or shop that needs a slab where there's only dirt now. A good floor and a bad one look about the same on the first day, so I explain what's going under yours and what happens in the days after the pour before we start.
The price moves mostly with the size of the floor in square feet, how thick it needs to be, whether it gets rebar, the steel that holds the slab together if it cracks, and how much old concrete and soft dirt has to come out first. A reinforced slab costs more per square foot than a plain one, and a floor that carries a car or heavy equipment sits at the thicker end. The schedule turns on whether your job needs a permit and inspections, the weather on pour day and the cure time before you can use the floor. When I come out, I go over those choices with you and write up an estimate with your own figure.
From the first look at your site to the last walk-through, it's me and our own crew, and here's how that goes.
I spent years patching slabs at rental properties before I started this business in 2013, and I'm the one who walks your site. I go over your options and what each one means for cost and upkeep, then write up the estimate.
We're licensed and insured, and our own crew does the work. That matters on a floor job, because California only lets unlicensed work slide when it's under $1,000, needs no permit and the person doing it has no one working for them.
I check in while the crew works, and when the floor's done we walk it together so you can look at the finish and the joints and ask about anything. Your satisfaction, guaranteed.
Before anything else, I ask whether a covering or coating is going on the floor later, because that decides where the moisture barrier goes. One industry guide says a barrier placed right against the slab gives coverings and coatings the most protection, and we plan each floor's barrier around what's going on top of it. Then we dig out and pack the base, set the barrier and any steel, pour, finish, cut the joints and let the slab cure. Most concrete trouble starts under the slab or in the days right after the pour, so that's where we put our care, and while we finish and joint the floor we watch the timing closely, because getting it wrong can bring cracks, faster wear and high or low spots.
A new floor often ties into other work. If it meets a doorway that needs a way down to the yard, we build concrete steps on the same kind of packed base, and if the project reaches out back, we pour concrete pool decks too.
Each step has a reason behind it, and I'm glad to go over any of them on site.
We take out the topsoil and any soft spots, then compact the subgrade, the ground the slab sits on, by rolling or tamping it. If the budget's tight, the base is the last place I'd trim, because it's buried on day one and a slab on loose dirt settles right along with it.
Before the forms go up, we check which way water runs on and around the floor. That way the slab doesn't hold puddles or tip toward the house.
We schedule the pour for the cooler hours, because concrete that bakes in midday heat can end up with a weak, dusty top. Then we finish it when the concrete is ready, which is the part that decides how the surface wears.
We cut the control joints, shallow grooves that give the slab a planned place to crack, as soon as it will take the saw. Then the floor cures, which means we keep it from drying out too fast so it hardens all the way through.
Call (562) 358-3037 or send the form with your address, roughly how many square feet the floor is and any covering you plan to put on it. We reply within one business day, then I come out, look at the site and write up a free on-site estimate. There's no obligation to hire us.
(562) 358-3037A plain concrete slab without staining or stamping usually runs about $7 to $14 per square foot in the Los Angeles area. That's the going rate around here, not our price. Your own figure comes from the estimate after I've seen the site.
It may, because all concrete tends to crack as it shrinks, but the control joints we cut give those cracks a planned place to form instead of wandering across the floor. A packed base keeps the slab from settling, which heads off the other common kind of crack.
One Los Angeles cost guide says a slab should be walkable within 48 hours and takes a month to fully cure. The same guide suggests waiting a week before putting heavier loads on it, so plan your move-in and any heavy furniture or equipment around that.
South Whittier is an unincorporated part of Los Angeles County, so permits here come from LA County Public Works, not a city hall. Their permit list names new building, additions, alterations, repairs, replacements and grading, and it doesn't name concrete floors, so ask your local County office what your project requires using the phone or email in its Service Locator. When a job calls for a permit, we help you find which office handles your address, help with the paperwork and plan the work around the inspections.
We're based in South Whittier and work across the cities around it, including Norwalk, Whittier, Downey and Santa Fe Springs. A lot of the floor calls we get around here are for garages being turned into living space, room additions and backyard shops, and the base work is the same wherever the job is. If you don't see your city listed, call and ask.
A short visit tells me what your ground and your plans for the room really need, and that's a better place to start than any guess over the phone.
If you've got questions about a new floor, call or send a note and I'll talk you through it.
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